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Pozycja Halochromic properties of a 5-aminoimidazole-4-carboxamidrazone and its application to wool(Wydawnictwo Politechniki Łódzkiej, 2022) Ribeiro, Ana Isabel; Dantas, Daniela; Silva, Renata; Remião, Fernando; Pinto, Eugénia; Cerqueira, Fátima; Dias, Alice; Zille, AndreaThe application of stimuli-responsive molecules in textiles is an important field due to its potential in various areas of flexible sensing technology. In particular, pH plays an important role in nature, humans, and several processes. The pH of body fluids is one of the best indicators of disturbed health conditions. Thus, the development of textiles with halochromic properties has been increasingly attractive to display in real-time pH variations. Wool is one of the most important natural fibres because of its warmth and comfort. However, the dyeing process is costly and high energy-consuming. In this work, the halochromic properties under different buffers (acetate, phosphate, Britton-Robinson, artificial sweat, and artificial wound exudate) of a previously synthesized 5-aminoimidazole-4-carboxamidrazone were studied. Moreover, the first attempt to dye a wool knitted fabric with this molecule at a low temperature was performed. The developed material showed interesting halochromic properties (colourless in acidic pH and blue colour in the alkaline pH), even using artificial body fluids.Pozycja Himalayan nettle: a promising fibre on the rise(Wydawnictwo Politechniki Łódzkiej, 2022) Santiago, Ana; Pinheiro, Cláudia; Belino, NunoThe nettle is widely known as an "unloved" plant due to its unpleasant and even painful texture when incorrectly handled. However, it has very interesting therapeutic properties and stands out for its high sustainability, from cultivation, extraction, and fibre processing to the development of a long-lasting end-product with unique characteristics. With this paper we sought to demonstrate the growing relevance of the nettle fibre for the fashion industry, mainly their spinnability properties. For this purpose, a hand spun Himalayan nettle yarn (588,24 Tex) was bought and it were studied. A woven fabric with different wool/nettle compositions was produced and their main properties analysed. Our findings proved that due to the irregularity of the acquired yarn, it is not possible to obtain scientific statements concerning the properties of nettle yarn. However, this is a work in progress, which aims for more promising results.Pozycja Wool finishing for washable worsted man’s jacket(Wydawnictwo Politechniki Łódzkiej, 2022) Rhouma, Amira Belhaj; Campagne, Christine; Behary, N. Massika; François, Sébastien; Lanceron, Charles; Vieillard, JulienThe aim of this study is to functionalize a 100% worsted wool fabric for use as washable suit jackets in a household washing machine (Samsung) with the wool/delicate cycle. In fact, it is highly recommended to wash worsted suit jackets by dry cleaning in order to avoid garment shrinkage when washing. Wool is known for its shrinking properties which make it difficult to wash with water. Varying chemical finishing were applied on woven worsted fabric. The aim of this finishing was to avoid both, felting shrinkage caused by the entanglement of fibres and fabric shrinkage due to fibre release strains and stresses introduced during processing, and hence improve its dimensional stability during domestic washing. A men jacket stitched with the chemically treated fabric was worn 5 times a week before being subjected to washing. Overall, 5 domestic washing were performed. And the fabric was analysed before and after the washings. Excellent dimensional stability was obtained without any sign of physical degradation as observed by SEM. This could be explained by the good adhesion of the fibre finish coating which resist to strains of wash and wear. Physical and chemical analysis using Zeta potential measurement would suggest that padding with a mixture of polycation (polyurethane based resin) and poly anion (polysiloxane-based resin) will help improving coating adhesion and hence its resistance to wash and wear.